Ormosia crassicarpa Pittier
Ormosia heterophylla Pires
Ormosia paraensis is an evergreen tree that can grow around 40 metres tall[
The tree is harvested from the wild for its wood.
The plants, but especially the seed and perhaps also the bark, of many if not all species in this genus contain alkaloids and are toxic[
S. America - northern Brazil, Venezuela, the Guyanas.
Rainforests, in areas not subject to seasonal inundation, growing on both sandy and clay soils; at elevations up to 800 metres[
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This species has a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria; these bacteria form nodules on the roots and fix atmospheric nitrogen. Some of this nitrogen is utilized by the growing plant but some can also be used by other plants growing nearby[
We have seen no specific reports for this species, but the brightly coloured seeds of various members of this genus are so commonly used as beads that the various species are often called necklace trees[
The heartwood is yellow-brown to red-brown, with thin light brown streaks; it is clearly demarcated from the 3 - 15cm wide band of sapwood. The texture is coarse, grain interlocked. The wood is fairly hard to hard, moderately heavy, with good elasticity, moderately durable, and resistant to damage from fungi, dry wood borers and termites. It is slow to dry with a slight risk of checking and distortion, and is moderately stable to poorly stable in service. The wood generally is easy to work, though there are sometimes diffiulties due to the interlocked grain, surfaces are slightly fuzzy and finishing requires care. Peeling and slicing are good, it takes nails and screws well and glues correctly. It is used for furniture, flooring, joinery, heavy carpentry, panelling, veneer and turnery[
Like many species within the family Fabaceae, once they have been dried for storage the seeds of this species may benefit from scarification before sowing in order to speed up and improve germination. This can usually be done by pouring a small amount of nearly boiling water on the seeds (being careful not to cook them!) and then soaking them for 12 - 24 hours in warm water. By this time they should have imbibed moisture and swollen - if they have not, then carefully make a nick in the seedcoat (being careful not to damage the embryo) and soak for a further 12 hours before sowing[
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